Zanjeer

 Everyone is in obvious costume, but great care is dispensed on the facial hair of Sanjay Dutt (Sher Khan) and Ram Charan (inspector Vijay Khanna). The loving attention gone into cultivating their 5 O'clock shadows could nurture bonsais. In the vein of obviousness, Dutt as Sher Khan has a pathani suit in every colour and wears curled up sandals to echo juttis. In the original, Pran had one "nice" flared pashtun suit with an embroidered waistcoat which he wore on important occasions such as the introductory visit to the police station and to sing 'Yaari hai imaan mera...'. Instead of a scar above the eyebrow in the original, Dutt's scar moves to his cheek. Gratefully, the resistance movement against orange henna-d hair won. NRI Mala dresses much like Priyanka Chopra does in real life - body con dresses, arched fringe and skinny pants. Inspector Vijay Khanna is uninterested in the world beyond his work, so offduty clothing is drab and colourless until he falls in love and sings a song. There he wears blue to reflect a momentary calmness.

To our delight, the the costume department invests its buck in the antagonists - Teja (Prakash Raj) and Mona (Mahie Gill). It's a homage to the suave and sophisticated villains and molls of the 1970s. All the wardrobe essentials of the wellheeled anti-social element are here - plush smoking jackets, short brocade dressing gowns with broad lapel, colourful three-piece suits with contrast piping, jewel-toned cravats and diamond rings. The new Teja's wardrobe has more swagger, and the nod to his predecessor can't be missed - thick diamond-encrusted specs replace Ajit's butterfly-winged black ones.

Mona shops with equal enthusiasm at designer stores and Bangkok boutiques - there are Pria Kataria Puri (she's one of the costume designers) kaftans, sequinned column dresses, baubles from vendors that ply in the second class women's compartment in a Mumbai Local, and an enamelled panther ring from kitsch designer Manish Arora's line for Amrapali. A high-low mix that comes from her past and talks of her present.

While there is no trend to take-away, you can revel briefly in the era of the suave smuggler. However, with the omission of the crucial link bracelet the movie title loses its reference.Smuggle in the good times

Let's bell the cat: the villain Teja in the new Zanjeer does not wear a link bracelet that lent the original movie its name; in it's place is a horse tattoo on his forearm. This small identification mark for his family's killer is planted into the protagonist's memory in childhood and grows into a psychological constraint over time. But the costume designers (there are three of them) of Zanjeer 2013 do not risk subtleties. By putting a writhing waif in a black bondage bikini in the title song, the movie declares it's going the deliciously campy way.